Mostar gathers around the Stari Most, the graceful 16th-century bridge rebuilt after the war and now a UNESCO symbol of reconciliation. Watch the local divers leap from its 24-metre arch into the green river below.
The cobbled bazaar, riverside cafés and Ottoman houses make for an atmospheric day, and nearby Blagaj and Počitelj are easy add-ons.
Stay overnight after the day-trippers leave to enjoy the floodlit bridge in peace.