Sun-baked Herzegovina rewards slow exploration. At Blagaj, a white dervish house sits beneath a cliff where a river gushes from a cave — one of the country most serene spots.
The stepped Ottoman village of Počitelj climbs a hillside above the Neretva, while Trebinje offers shady squares, monasteries and some of Bosnia best wine.
Rent a car and wander; the distances are short and the discoveries frequent.